I need broccoli

After two weeks straight of eating red meat and potatoes in the staff mess hall, I had three free days in a row, which meant … VEGETABLES! I took a bus to Puerto Natales and camped out for about two hours at Concepto Indigo, this chic restaurant/hotel overlooking Seno Ultima Esperanza, or Last Hope Sound. Unlike a lot of Puerto Natales, which is pretty utilitarian, the restaurant is very sleek and modern: Hardwood floors and white walls, cylindrical lamps hanging over the tables, rows of low brown couches accented with bright-colored pillows. It's the perfect haven for someone who wants a bit of pampering. I arrived early and just kept eating. To start: A shot-glass-sized cup of coffee, accompanied by four slivers of cake (They don’t really ‘do’ coffee in Chile. The instant stuffis about all you can find anywhere.)

Then, to warm up for real: A salad topped with smoked salmon, carrot and apple slivers, fried cheese squares and dressing


Third, and mainly: Polenta, topped with skewers of grilled mushrooms, peppers, onions and tomatoes. A wine-flavored paste on the side. And to finish, with a bang: Two brownie domes filled with liquid chocolate and accompanied by berry ice cream. I accidentally spent $27 on the meal (it’s amazing how those Chilean pesos get away from you when there’s good food involved). But you know what? It was worth it, because tonight, it’s back to meat and potatoes.